Early spring flower

 December sees Michel in Africa, while I pass February, once the Salon des Vins de Loire has finished, in Lisbon.  Why, you might ask. Easy – February in Lisbon is usually more pleasant than February in London, even though some years it can be decidedly wet. However, temperatures of 14-19˚C are considerably more attractive than 4-9˚C.

So I thought it time to have a break away from the inanities of the AOP Touraine reform, although there is much ground for comment remaining, and the appalling 1855, even though the amount of wine yet to be delivered continues to climb. Currently it has reached 4957 bottles (413+ cases) for a cost to buy today of over 261,000 €. It would seem all too likely that this total will continue to climb. Only this morning came news of an unfortunate customer of 1855 who is awaiting some 50 cases of en primeurs from 2004-2007. Once I have details these will be added to the total. Where Fabien Hyon is this likely to stop?

But let’s leave 1855 for a week – there will be time for an update and a chance to meet the delightful Monsieur (or perhaps, Señor Mañana, Chef d'Equipe Service Client) and a look at the role of FEVAD.

 Instead let’s celebrate some Portuguese wine that does deliver and for a very reasonable price.

First up the 2008 Palha Canas, a Vinho Regional Lisboa from Casa Santos Lima in Alenquer around 45k north of Lisbon (www.casasantoslima.com). The 2008, which is partially barrel aged and retails for 4.79€, is a medium weight, soft, easy drinking wine with mainly red fruits. It’s a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz along with smaller proportions Castelão (Periquita) and Camarate. A proportion is aged in oak. An enjoyable glass but not one to be analysed.

 The more concentrated 2007 Cabeça de Toiro Reserva, DO Tejo, Caves Velhas  is certainly worth 1.20€ it costs over the Palha Canas.  DO Tejo is the new name for the zone previously called the Ribatejo for the vineyards running along both sides of the Tejo to the north of Lisbon. See here for details.

Finally onto a wine from an historically famous appellation – a 2003 Colares Chitas from Antonio Bernardino Paulo da Silva, who is based in  Azenhas do Mar. See here

From Wikipedia on Colares: ‘Located along the southwestern Atlantic  coast, vineyards in the area are protected from the strong ocean winds by sandy dunes. The sand based soils have also had the benefit of keeping the phylloxera louse at bay. The ungrafted Ramisco  vines of the Colares region are some of the oldest in Portugal. The region is known for its deep colored, full-bodied red wines that are high in astringent tannins.’

 Although I have passed through Colares, down the hill from Sintra, on many occasions on the way to the beach and restaurant at Praia Adraga, I have never tasted or drunk a Colares before. Passing through the little town there are few signs of vines there. Anyway seeing this bottle on the shelves at the local supermarket, I decided it was time to try a bottle and it went into the trolley.

Certainly this Colares is more challenging than the two previous wines. The 2003 doesn’t fit the Wiki’s description of being full-bodied. This has 12% alcohol and a spicy, slightly musty nose. It has more delicacy of a Pinot Noir from a northerly clime with high acidity than the more punchy reds wines generally associated with Portugal. Certainly the high acidity helps to ensure that Colares can age for many years. It appears to benefit from a long period in a decanter as tasting it 24 hours after it was opened, the 2003 is rather more mellow and silky than it was the evening before.

 

I ought to try more Colares, although the number of producers are limited. As the DOC is right by the Atlantic Ocean there is very stiff competition with real estate wanting to satisfy the demand for a place near the sea.

The back label maintains that ‘This  is a first class wine which can be compared to the best all over the world.’ Well the 2003 can be compared to the best around world but I’m not convinced that this comparison entirely stands up.

For more details on Colares see Ken Peyton's fine piece on his Reign of Terroir blog here.  

Jim