Millésime Bio, the annual organic wine fair held in Montpellier, continues to grow. The 2012 edition, held last week, attracted nearly 600 exhibitors and some 3600 visitors up by around 12% from 3200 who attended last year’s edition.

I found plenty to admire at the Salon last week as I concentrated on the around 60 Loire producers present. Certainly many good dry Chenins from Anjou, Saumur and Montlouis including two from Domaine Philippe Delesvaux showing very different stylistic differences.

2008 Feuille d’Or, Anjou Blanc, Domaine Philippe Delesvaux

I was convinced that this 2008 was made in an oxidative style. Indeed I noted that it was a very good Anjou Fino. However, Philippe Delesvaux assured me that analytically it is not  oxidative and that this is just the way the dry 2008s turned out. Whatever I think this works but I still think of in terms of a wine from Jerez with some salty oxidation.

2009 Authentique, Anjou, Domaine Philippe Delesvaux  

Philippe’s 2009 Authentique is very different. Admittedly a different year but also this is from ungrafted Chenin Blanc vines planted in 2000 and giving a rich, long honeyed dryish wine but with a touch of sweetness.    

Romorantin – Cour-Cheverny
Despite the best efforts of the ayatollahs of Touraine and the INAO to stamp out interesting, quirky and characterful grape varieties in one part of the valley, the Romorantin survives just a few miles away and has its own appellation in Cour-Cheverny.I had a very interesting tasting of Romorantins from Domaine des Huards (http://fr.domainedeshuards.com/). It was particularly interesting to see how wines made from Romorantin need time to show their best. This was demonstrated by a short vertical of the straight Cour-Cheverny from 2010-2008. 2010 and 2009 were pleasant enough but were work in progress. You had to wait until the 2008 for the wine to start to show its real honeyed character balanced by quite austere minerality. 

 2008 Cour-Cheverny, Domaine des Huards

Grolleau Noir
A few years ago Grolleau Noir and Grolleau Gris were dismissed as an uninteresting work-horse grape, whose synonym – `Groslot – summed up its ready propensity to overproduce. Now there is a re-evaluation underway. Not only can it produce an attractive, relatively low-alcohol rosé  but it makes a soft, juicy black fruited red. Château Bois-Briançon (Xavier and Géraldine Cailleau – http://www.chateau-bois-brincon.com/) in Anjou has just such a red – the 79. As there is no appellation Cailleau opts for a vin de France rather than an IGP – “less paperwork and I don’t have to pay InterLoire”. As a vin de France it can’t have a vintage, so the 2009 is called 79 as that is the length of time since the parcel was planted!

 
79 – 2009 Grolleau Noir, Château Bois-Briancon

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1855 – a recommended lawyer
I frequently receive messages from frustrated customers of 1855 seeking advice on what to do about getting hold of their wines. Recently I have received two very positive reports about a law firm in Paris – DDG, who seem to be making taking on 1855 somewhat of a specialty. The person to contact there is Gwendoline Cattier, details at the end of the following report from JH:.

‘As you may be aware, in September 2011 I started a procedure at the Tribunal D'Instance de Paris 1er against www.1855.com. I have had to push back the hearing twice as I did not fully appreciate that it was in my interest to get legal counsel given that www.1855.com has full legal representation. Given this development, I have taken's C****’s recommendation and instructed DDG to act for me.

I have just come off the phone with Gwendoline Cattier of DDG and I am very impressed, she obviously knows the situation inside out and was able to walk me through the process.

Even though my next hearing is on 20 March 2012, optimistically I can't expect a refund until July 2012, which allows time for the judge to opine, for the Greffier to publish this and then for this to be executed by 1855. This is the best case scenario, which assumes that 1855 co-operates, failing which we will need to get bailiffs involved. Gwendoline's advice is to ask for the current value of the missing wine and then add the same again as compensation.

The good news is that there are so many on going cases against 1855, that the judges are more than aware of the case and highly likely to take a dim view and side favourably with plaintiffs. However, the bad news is that it pays to start the process as soon as possible given the delays in repayment and obviously the longer the delay to starting proceedings, the higher the risk that 1855 becomes insolvent, particularly with the number of proceedings against them (even though this development would delight me, I still harbour hopes of getting my money back).’

Gwendoline Cattier
Avocat à la Cour

Email: cattier@ddg.fr

Deprez Guignot Associés

21 Rue Clément Marot, 750008 Paris

Tele: 01.53.23.80.80

www.ddg.fr

It seems to me sensible to employ a French lawyer if you decide to take 1855 to court, especially if you live outside France and if your knowledge of French law is limited. There would appear to be a good chance of your legal fees being paid by 1855.

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Born Digital Awards 2011
A reminder that there are now less than 24 hours to enter the 2011 edition of the Born Digital Awards. Entries close at midnight GMT. The organisers are particularly keen to have entries in languages other than English. Details here. 

  Jim