Millésime Bio, the annual organic wine fair held in Montpellier, continues to grow. The 2012 edition, held last week, attracted nearly 600 exhibitors and some 3600 visitors up by around 12% from 3200 who attended last year’s edition.

I found plenty to admire at the Salon last week as I concentrated on the around 60 Loire producers present. Certainly many good dry Chenins from Anjou, Saumur and Montlouis including two from Domaine Philippe Delesvaux showing very different stylistic differences.

2008 Feuille d’Or, Anjou Blanc, Domaine Philippe Delesvaux

I was convinced that this 2008 was made in an oxidative style. Indeed I noted that it was a very good Anjou Fino. However, Philippe Delesvaux assured me that analytically it is not  oxidative and that this is just the way the dry 2008s turned out. Whatever I think this works but I still think of in terms of a wine from Jerez with some salty oxidation.

2009 Authentique, Anjou, Domaine Philippe Delesvaux  

Philippe’s 2009 Authentique is very different. Admittedly a different year but also this is from ungrafted Chenin Blanc vines planted in 2000 and giving a rich, long honeyed dryish wine but with a touch of sweetness.    

Romorantin – Cour-Cheverny
Despite the best efforts of the ayatollahs of Touraine and the INAO to stamp out interesting, quirky and characterful grape varieties in one part of the valley, the Romorantin survives just a few miles away and has its own appellation in Cour-Cheverny.I had a very interesting tasting of Romorantins from Domaine des Huards (http://fr.domainedeshuards.com/). It was particularly interesting to see how wines made from Romorantin need time to show their best. This was demonstrated by a short vertical of the straight Cour-Cheverny from 2010-2008. 2010 and 2009 were pleasant enough but were work in progress. You had to wait until the 2008 for the wine to start to show its real honeyed character balanced by quite austere minerality. 

 2008 Cour-Cheverny, Domaine des Huards

Grolleau Noir
A few years ago Grolleau Noir and Grolleau Gris were dismissed as an uninteresting work-horse grape, whose synonym – `Groslot – summed up its ready propensity to overproduce. Now there is a re-evaluation underway. Not only can it produce an attractive, relatively low-alcohol rosé  but it makes a soft, juicy black fruited red. Château Bois-Briançon (Xavier and Géraldine Cailleau – http://www.chateau-bois-brincon.com/) in Anjou has just such a red – the 79. As there is no appellation Cailleau opts for a vin de France rather than an IGP – “less paperwork and I don’t have to pay InterLoire”. As a vin de France it can’t have a vintage, so the 2009 is called 79 as that is the length of time since the parcel was planted!

 
79 – 2009 Grolleau Noir, Château Bois-Briancon

**

1855 – a recommended lawyer
I frequently receive messages from frustrated customers of 1855 seeking advice on what to do about getting hold of their wines. Recently I have received two very positive reports about a law firm in Paris – DDG, who seem to be making taking on 1855 somewhat of a specialty. The person to contact there is Gwendoline Cattier, details at the end of the following report from JH:.

‘As you may be aware, in September 2011 I started a procedure at the Tribunal D'Instance de Paris 1er against www.1855.com. I have had to push back the hearing twice as I did not fully appreciate that it was in my interest to get legal counsel given that www.1855.com has full legal representation. Given this development, I have taken's C****’s recommendation and instructed DDG to act for me.

I have just come off the phone with Gwendoline Cattier of DDG and I am very impressed, she obviously knows the situation inside out and was able to walk me through the process.

Even though my next hearing is on 20 March 2012, optimistically I can't expect a refund until July 2012, which allows time for the judge to opine, for the Greffier to publish this and then for this to be executed by 1855. This is the best case scenario, which assumes that 1855 co-operates, failing which we will need to get bailiffs involved. Gwendoline's advice is to ask for the current value of the missing wine and then add the same again as compensation.

The good news is that there are so many on going cases against 1855, that the judges are more than aware of the case and highly likely to take a dim view and side favourably with plaintiffs. However, the bad news is that it pays to start the process as soon as possible given the delays in repayment and obviously the longer the delay to starting proceedings, the higher the risk that 1855 becomes insolvent, particularly with the number of proceedings against them (even though this development would delight me, I still harbour hopes of getting my money back).’

Gwendoline Cattier
Avocat à la Cour

Email: cattier@ddg.fr

Deprez Guignot Associés

21 Rue Clément Marot, 750008 Paris

Tele: 01.53.23.80.80

www.ddg.fr

It seems to me sensible to employ a French lawyer if you decide to take 1855 to court, especially if you live outside France and if your knowledge of French law is limited. There would appear to be a good chance of your legal fees being paid by 1855.

 **

Born Digital Awards 2011
A reminder that there are now less than 24 hours to enter the 2011 edition of the Born Digital Awards. Entries close at midnight GMT. The organisers are particularly keen to have entries in languages other than English. Details here. 

  Jim

Je rebondis sur le billet de David comme sur un trampoline et vous propose quelques suggestions de bulles légère en prix aussi.

Je commence par le doux, pour le fun et la salade de fruits, avec  le Cerdon de Lingot Martin Cuvée Sélectionnée. Le genre de bulles qui ne déçoivent gamay - c'est du gamay, en majorité. Et pour un tout petit Bugey, ce qui est appréciable en ces temps de crise...!

Le prix: entre 7 et 8 euros selon le revendeur

Cerdon nous en une tournée!

Et en sec, la bulle de Frédéric Brochet, Armance B, un chardonnay folle blanche... pas courant, l'assemblage, mais de jolies notes de pain beurré et de miel d'acacia au nez; le dosage est assez perceptible, mais l'acidité aussi, alors l'impression en bouche est celle d'une belle élégance!

Le prix: entre 7,5  et 9  euros selon le revendeur

Armance B... comme Brochet

Côté Champagne, cette année, le choix est vaste : je viens de faire trois visites à quelques jours d'intervalle, c'est dire que ma mémoire est fraîche, même si mon palais est sec.

Dans la catégorie marques, je vous propose la cuvée Mosaïque Rosé de Jacquart. Pourquoi celle-là? Parce que tous les champagnes rosés sont loin de se valoir, que Jacquart en est un des pionniers, que  cette coopérative a accès à d'excellents vins rouges de l'Aube (essentiels pour un vrai grand champagne rosé),  et que cette Mosaïque vous offre un excellent rapport fruits rouges-fraîcheur-prix.

Le prix: entre 24 et 33 euros (selon les revendeurs)

  Chez Jacquart, la cuvée Mosaïque existe en blanc et en rosé

Dans la catégorie des récoltants-manipulants, mon coeur balance - vous n'êtes pas sans savoir que j'ai visité les 14 vignerons de l'association des Artisans du Champagne.

Allez, je me lance, je vous propose le Brut Blanc de  Noirs de Gonet -Médeville; parce que c'est un vin très ouvert au nez (frangipane, fleurs blanches, brioche), peu dosé, mais avec une belle structure en bouche (fruit mûr, amplitude, un petit côté viandeux en finale, de la vivacité...). J'adore ces vins qu'on peut presque  mâcher! Terroir de craie (Bisseuil).

Le prix: autour de 20 euros

Gonet-Médeville Blanc de Noirs

Et puis, pour le pied de nez, et puis le plaisir de l'interdit, je vous recommande un vin hors la loi: le Cava de Jaume Serra Brut, cuvée Cristalino. Figurez vous que cette maison du Penedès a été attaquée en justice par Roederer, qui jugeait le nom de cette cuvée trop proche de son Cristal. Roederer a gagné, Jaume Serra en est donc quitte pour changer de nom et liquider ses stocks.

C'est risible. Je ne vois pas qui pourrait confondre les deux produits (l'écart de prix, à lui seul, est déjà une indication), mais qui suis-je pour discuter une décision de justice?

Alors profitons plutôt de cette bonne blague et buvons Cristalino tant qu'il y en a;  s'il n'a rien à voir avec un Champagne, ce n'en est pas moins un très joli cava.

Macabeu, Parellada, Xarello, la triologie catalane est en action; au nez, c'est assez citronné, mais la bouche est ample et crémeuse; l'acidité est moyenne, c'est plutôt son gras qui porte le vin. En finale, quelques notes de fruits secs. Un goût de revenez-y, et vu le tarif, porque no?

Le prix: 6 euros (et moins cher sur place, évidemment).

Jaume Serra... ne dites plus Cristalino...

Et maintenant, joyeuses bulles et joyeuses fêtes à tous...

Hervé

PS. Je tiens les adresses à votre disposition