Early spring flower

 December sees Michel in Africa, while I pass February, once the Salon des Vins de Loire has finished, in Lisbon.  Why, you might ask. Easy – February in Lisbon is usually more pleasant than February in London, even though some years it can be decidedly wet. However, temperatures of 14-19˚C are considerably more attractive than 4-9˚C.

So I thought it time to have a break away from the inanities of the AOP Touraine reform, although there is much ground for comment remaining, and the appalling 1855, even though the amount of wine yet to be delivered continues to climb. Currently it has reached 4957 bottles (413+ cases) for a cost to buy today of over 261,000 €. It would seem all too likely that this total will continue to climb. Only this morning came news of an unfortunate customer of 1855 who is awaiting some 50 cases of en primeurs from 2004-2007. Once I have details these will be added to the total. Where Fabien Hyon is this likely to stop?

But let’s leave 1855 for a week – there will be time for an update and a chance to meet the delightful Monsieur (or perhaps, Señor Mañana, Chef d'Equipe Service Client) and a look at the role of FEVAD.

 Instead let’s celebrate some Portuguese wine that does deliver and for a very reasonable price.

First up the 2008 Palha Canas, a Vinho Regional Lisboa from Casa Santos Lima in Alenquer around 45k north of Lisbon (www.casasantoslima.com). The 2008, which is partially barrel aged and retails for 4.79€, is a medium weight, soft, easy drinking wine with mainly red fruits. It’s a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz along with smaller proportions Castelão (Periquita) and Camarate. A proportion is aged in oak. An enjoyable glass but not one to be analysed.

 The more concentrated 2007 Cabeça de Toiro Reserva, DO Tejo, Caves Velhas  is certainly worth 1.20€ it costs over the Palha Canas.  DO Tejo is the new name for the zone previously called the Ribatejo for the vineyards running along both sides of the Tejo to the north of Lisbon. See here for details.

Finally onto a wine from an historically famous appellation – a 2003 Colares Chitas from Antonio Bernardino Paulo da Silva, who is based in  Azenhas do Mar. See here

From Wikipedia on Colares: ‘Located along the southwestern Atlantic  coast, vineyards in the area are protected from the strong ocean winds by sandy dunes. The sand based soils have also had the benefit of keeping the phylloxera louse at bay. The ungrafted Ramisco  vines of the Colares region are some of the oldest in Portugal. The region is known for its deep colored, full-bodied red wines that are high in astringent tannins.’

 Although I have passed through Colares, down the hill from Sintra, on many occasions on the way to the beach and restaurant at Praia Adraga, I have never tasted or drunk a Colares before. Passing through the little town there are few signs of vines there. Anyway seeing this bottle on the shelves at the local supermarket, I decided it was time to try a bottle and it went into the trolley.

Certainly this Colares is more challenging than the two previous wines. The 2003 doesn’t fit the Wiki’s description of being full-bodied. This has 12% alcohol and a spicy, slightly musty nose. It has more delicacy of a Pinot Noir from a northerly clime with high acidity than the more punchy reds wines generally associated with Portugal. Certainly the high acidity helps to ensure that Colares can age for many years. It appears to benefit from a long period in a decanter as tasting it 24 hours after it was opened, the 2003 is rather more mellow and silky than it was the evening before.

 

I ought to try more Colares, although the number of producers are limited. As the DOC is right by the Atlantic Ocean there is very stiff competition with real estate wanting to satisfy the demand for a place near the sea.

The back label maintains that ‘This  is a first class wine which can be compared to the best all over the world.’ Well the 2003 can be compared to the best around world but I’m not convinced that this comparison entirely stands up.

For more details on Colares see Ken Peyton's fine piece on his Reign of Terroir blog here.  

Jim  

 and further reflections on matching cyclists to wine

Modération regarde une verre de Vinho Verde

Scene: early evening in Lisbon

Modération: You know, Jim, it's high time you had a break. You have been slaving over that laptop all day. You deserve a drink. Time to enjoy the evening sunshine.

Jim: As  usual, you’re right Modération! Time for a glass.

Modération: I’d suggest a nicely chilled Alvarinho Vinho Verde.

Jim: It would be rude to argue. I’ll do as you say.

Jim pours a refreshing draught of 2009 Deu la Deu and takes an exploratory sip while enjoying the neighbourhood stillness within the bustle of Lisbon.

Jim: Cheers, Modération.

Moderation: Santé, Jim

Jim: Attractively lemony, some weight – fine reviving aperitif.

Modération:  How much is a bottle in local supermarket?

Jim: 5.99€ which I reckon is pretty good value for a pure Alvarinho. Pity it is not closed with a screwcap it would be so much more convenient as well as hopefully avoiding taint.

Modération: Jim, I’m sure you are right but I suspect that the Portuguese cork producers would raze the cooperative of Monção if they went for screwcaps!

Jim: Indeed!

A few precious moments of calm and tranquillity accompanied by an equal number of judicious sips.

Jim: Well this will not do, Modération, although it is extremely pleasant! It’s Monday and I have to post my weekly contribution to Les 5 du Vin by the start of Tuesday. I’ve long since given up trying to keep pace with my most energetic and distinguished colleagues, who not only post their weekly contributions on the nail but also regularly post over the weekends.

Modération: But Jim don’t forget that, at least, one of them is un jeune à la retraite!

Jim: So true Modération! Balzac would be proud of Michel’s productivity, although whether he would be prepared to exchange a garden in Saché for one in PerpiGNAN is probably a moot point. (Incidentally I do recognise the Angevin sweet wine producer in the impressive quiz.) Anyway enough of this! If I don’t get post up in time it will be tar and feathers, sackcloth and ashes, Rosé d’Anjou and Australian Chardonnay!

Modération: Well, at least, it’s not Rosé de Provence!

Jim: You know, Modération, you’re a very badly behaved bird!

Modération: Un autre petit canon?

Jim: Pourquoi pas?

Modération: So this week’s post?

Jim: Well I started a short series last week linking cyclists on the Tour de France with appropriate wines and left it hanging with Mark Cavendish.

Modération: A slight cop-out, perhaps?

Jim: Santé – what an observant bird you are! Yes last Monday it wasn’t at all clear how Mark’s Tour might pane out. Failing to negotiate a corner on the run into Brussels ruled him out of sprint he might well have won. Of course I posted before the nadir in Reims and before the consecutive triumphs in Montargis and Gueugnon.

Modération: He’s a successful sprinter, right?

Jim: Brilliantly moderate understatement! At just 25 Mark is already one of the Tour de France greats with 12 stage victories. He is now up into the top 20 all time riders, who have amassed the most stage victories in the world’s premier bike race. Mark is now on the same number of stage wins as other great past sprinters – Erik Zabel, Robbie McEwen, Mario Cipollini as well as five times winner of the Tour – Miguel Indurain. I’m sure that the enormity of what Cavendish has achieved in such a short time is better understood in France or Belgium. List of all-time stage winners here.

Modération … doubtless but a matching wine?

Jim: Yes good question! It has got to be explosive, so definitely a sparkling wine. Champagne is out as it is too branded and Mark remains intriguingly unpredictable and, from time to time, almost drowned by self-doubt. His more arsey side might suit an Australian sparkling Shiraz but his sprinting is too fine for that. Prosecco? Lemony precision – yes but too predictable. I’m tempted by a Loire PetNat – sufficiently unpredictable and variable but semi-sparkling isn’t explosive enough for Mark. Work in progress encore perhaps?

Modération: I hear Lance Armstrong blew up big time yesterday…

Jim: Indeed so, at nearly 39 years-old his body said enough, although he wasn’t helped by a bad crash just before the crucial climb of the Col de la Ramaz.

Modération: Did you match Lance with a wine last week?

Jim: Yeah. I went for a powerful Californian Zindandel but after Sunday I’ve had second thoughts. I now reckon Armstrong’s like a case of Bordeaux cru classé bought en primeur and drunk over a number of years. Given Lance’s tough, uncompromising nature it has to be Saint-Estèphe. The first four bottles you try are tannic, showing some promise but need time. The next seven are magically transformed – just unbelievably brilliant. Then having for some reason forgotten about them for the next three years you try the eleventh, which is still pretty good but not at the same level as the previous seven. A year later you try the last bottle – completely stuffed (complètement farci  in Français classique) and over the hill.     

Modération: c’est comme ça!

Jim: Well I must get back to work! Yikes only 30 minutes before this has got to be up!

Modération; I think I’ll go off and twitter… 

L'abus des oiseaux est dangereux pour la santé, à consommer avec modération (Le Loi Avian 1991)

 
Jim